Text and images by Petya Bartosch
As we first entered the Voodoo Priest’s dark consultation room, we had to walk in backward. This ritual ensured the spirits of the ancestors and divinities saw us before we saw them, a sign of respect. It was an incredibly sacred space filled with candles, remedies, totems, and various cultural and healing items like starfish, bones, and cowrie shells. The strong smell of palm oil mixed with the scent of dead organic matter from past sacrifices hung in the air. The sacrificial shrine was adorned with feathers and splattered with animal blood, making the atmosphere both intense and fascinating. However, I quickly became accustomed to the smell, as I was captivated by the uniqueness of the experience. I felt deeply honored to be welcomed into this sacred space of healing as an outsider.
The consultation wasn’t just about learning the ancient healing rituals of Benin‘s Voodoo culture—it was also a personal journey. I had the chance to discuss my health. But before we began, I had to offer a sacrifice to the ancestors. Even something as simple as a fruit would suffice. A Xefa coin was accepted. The priest then smoked in silence, sharing the smoke with his divinities—wooden statues that served as spiritual connections to the ancestors. He explained the symbolism behind each object in the room: the skulls, the bones, the feathers, and especially the statues, which represented different gods—gods of justice, protection, love, and more.
One of the things that struck me was how everyday rituals in West Africa share parallels with traditions from other parts of the world. For instance, if someone is fighting to save their marriage, there’s a chain attached to one of the gods (I can’t recall the name), where locks are fastened during a ritual to symbolize the bond of the relationship. This reminded me of the locks lovers attach to bridges in Paris. It’s incredible to see the similarities in traditions across the globe, despite cultural differences.
Legba, one of the most common gods in Voodoo, sits in front of homes as a protector. Certain plants are also used to guard households from harm. Another fascinating belief I learned is that pythons are considered sacred because, according to local legend, they once protected the king of the ancient Dahomey Kingdom.
The depth of meaning behind everything in Benin’s culture is profound, and it was amazing to unpack these layers with expert guides who introduced us to traditional healers, local chiefs, and everyday people during our FROST Benin Magic on Earth Photo Tour.
One of the Fa Oracles offered profound advice on how to live a calmer, more enlightened life, and how to treat the inflammation in my spine holistically. He identified that my Western medications were contributing to liver problems and prescribed a traditional herbal remedy for cleansing. Using tiny incisions made on my lower back with a small blade, he rubbed plant-based powders into the cuts. The belief is that through these incisions, the patient can bleed out their illness, helping to draw the pain from the body.
Our conversation spanned a variety of topics, from the emotional effects of trauma on the body to color therapy, which was particularly intriguing. He explained how different colors carry certain energies and can influence mental well-being. He even pointed out that someone in my life often wears red (which is true—my mother always does), and advised that I surround myself with more grounding colors, like green and blue.
When you travel, it’s essential to remain open-minded and immerse yourself in the culture you’re visiting. As the saying goes, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” It may sound cliché, but it’s in these moments—when you step outside your comfort zone—that authentic, magical experiences happen. Yes, it can be daunting in unfamiliar places, but the reward is worth it.
I’m so grateful to be in Benin, having meaningful conversations, and learning about the culture, not just through facts recited by a guide, but through genuine human connections made along the way.
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