After gathering some last-minute supplies, we set off from Juba, the capital of South Sudan, following the Nile northwards towards the Mundari people. Excitement buzzed through the land cruiser! It was surprising how quickly the hustle and bustle of Juba faded, replaced by the quiet, remote Mundari cattle camp. As we arrived, the landscape stretched out before us, dry and scorched under the hot sun, with the air thick from the smoke of burning cow dung.
Soon after arriving, we jumped into exploring the cattle camp and meeting the Mundari people. The FROST team set up our private mobile tented camp, nestled under a wide mango tree next to the cattle camp. The camp was perfectly located for easy access to the Mundari, allowing us to take advantage of the best photographic light in the early mornings and late afternoons. This unique camp setup was designed for photographers, providing us with comfortable accommodations, including spacious 4-meter diameter bell tents, toilets, showers, solar lights, and even a generator to charge our gear.
My first impression was that the camp was impeccably clean with young boys working very hard to get ready for the returning cows, completing a long list of duties. It was as if the entire camp had been swept, all dung was gathered and the ground was cleaned, with sticks in circular patterns, for each cow to be stationed at. Each circle of cattle belongs to a different family. There is a strong hierarchy among different ages and a particular social order between men and women each following different roles and chores. The boys were gathering cow dung and burning it, preparing the camp, rubbing red ash onto their cattle and milking them whilst women were either caring for the children or milking the cows, grinding garlic, boiling coffee beans, mixing porridge and caring for the cattle. Everyone was very busy. Our first evening with the Mundari revealed the deep connection they have with their prized Akole-Watusi cattle, a horned breed known as “the kings of cattle.”
As dusk fell, the camp came alive with thousands of cattle returning from grazing, filling the air with their deep bellowing sounds. We spent time observing the scene, meeting the Mundari, and soaking up the atmosphere before lifting our cameras. Frost’s tour leaders and local team believe that respect and connection are crucial elements of cultural photography tours, and by spending time building relationships with the Mundari, we ensured that our photography was both authentic and respectful. This made the experience more comfortable and genuine for me.
We photographed the everyday life of the Mundari, especially the bond between the Mundari and their cattle which was beautiful to see. This relationship is an inspiring reminder for all of us to nurture our deep connection to nature. There were a few prized cattle, protected more in the middle of the camp, with decorative tassels hanging on their mighty horns. We met wrestlers practicing for fun and photographed them in action. It was thrilling with dust twirling around us.
This exclusive South Sudan photo tour offered us ample opportunities to photograph unique moments. One second you’re photographing cheeky baby goats jumping and playing on a resting cow, then next to you a young man starts blowing his huge cattle horn into a beautiful rhythm. Then the next second, your camera is set on a man framed between horns with light streaming down through them, backlit by golden dust. There is a wealth of magical moments awaiting your camera. I felt like I was transported to photography heaven, as each day there was something new to document, playing with shape, line and form as well as interesting compositions in between the hustle and bustle. Another unique moment to photograph is men pouring urine on their heads to dye it a golden yellow.
One of the highlights of the tour was photographing individual portraits of the Mundari men and women. Using a black backdrop hung on our land cruiser, we created intimate portraits that captured the strength and beauty of the Mundari people. Engaging with our subjects, sharing laughter, and reviewing photos with them fostered deeper connections, resulting in more meaningful images. The Mundari were enthusiastic to see their photos!
The Mundari’s relationship with their cattle goes beyond livestock care—the animals are their currency, pride, and livelihood. It was fascinating to see the young boys raising their arms in a greeting that mimicked the shape of the cattle’s horns, a symbol of their deep connection to these majestic animals. Cattle are so valued that the Mundari are willing to protect them at any cost, with many tribesmen armed to defend their herds from threats.
Something that stood out to me was that the boys held their arms up in a very unique way. We always had our guide or translator with us and a local from the Mundari, to answer any questions and explain their fascinating cultural customs. From a young age the boys look after their own cattle, and carve their horns to manipulate their shape- a way to mark their cattle as theirs. When putting their arms up for the photograph they are imitating this shape, a very beautiful symbol of the strong love they have for their cattle. It was an honour to be welcomed into their lives and witness an incredibly peaceful, sustainable, way of life, one with nature.
As night fell, Kirsten wasn’t deterred by the lack of light and he encouraged us to experiment with flash photography. One standout moment was photographing a Mundari man guarding a cattle enclosure, with light streaming through the fence and creating abstract patterns around him. These moments of artistic play between light and shadow added a fine art dimension to our photography. Capturing movement at nightfall as Mundari women walked through cattle by the thousands created unique, unrepeatable, one chance shots which was exhilarating.
The Mundari tribe photo tour was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, offering both adventure and deep cultural immersion. For photographers seeking to explore some of the world’s most remote destinations, this tour provided a unique opportunity to document a way of life that few have witnessed. If you love travel, adventure, and photography, and don’t mind getting a little dirty, this cultural photography tour in South Sudan is the perfect opportunity to create a portfolio of truly unique images.
Text and images by Petya Bartosch
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